Grana Cochineal Fine…
Most tourists have no idea that just a couple of hundred meters from the main highway, a minute or two from the black ceramic town, lies one of the most fascinating destinations that the state of Oaxaca has to offer. to children and adults alike. And yet, most travelers have at least heard or read a bit about the natural red dye that comes from a tiny insect and is used to color the rugs they buy in Teotitlán del Valle, and other products, including some of the food and drinks you eat today… the grana fine cochineal, commonly known as cochineal.
I suspect that when reading their guidebooks or talking to tour guides and taxi drivers, visitors generally don’t realize the importance of this little insect on the world stage for centuries; Or maybe it’s enough to buy a rug and be told it’s stained with cochineal, and see and touch a few dried insects… rather than be amazed for 40 or 50 minutes. It would be different if they knew that during the conquest era, after gold and silver, cochineal was the most valuable product known to mankind, and that in 1758 Oaxaca exported more than 1.5 million Spanish pounds to Europe, Africa and Asia for a crowd. of uses, including dyeing fabric, including uniforms worn by British gentry and cavalry.
Known collectively as Tlapanochetli, the picturesque research center, museum, ranch, and outdoor learning environment is located in Santa María Coyotepec, on a dirt road just 15 minutes from downtown Oaxaca. The attraction is designed to hold the interest of travelers of all ages and all backgrounds, from laymen to academics to professionals.
Upon entering Tlapanochetli, you will be greeted by one of the employees who works at the ranch, or perhaps one of the two scientists who direct the research and teaching programs, Engineers Manuel Loera Fernández and Ignacio del Río Dueñas. He will learn about the life cycle of the cochineal, how it attaches to and feeds on a certain variety of nopal, and about its harvest and preparation for use as a dye. Children and adults alike will be delighted and awed by having a live or dried insect squashed in the palm of their hand that produces the scarlet pigment. You will be taught why not all types of cactus are suitable for cochineal production, which ones are used to make salads, and which varieties produce the sweet, edible red fruit known as prickly pear, which is sold seasonally in markets as well as apples and oranges. , and as frequent as a sherbet or a fresh fruit juice.
But your tour isn’t just about the insect and its host, it includes learning about a plethora of other natural products used to dye food and fabric, including walnut shells, oyster snail, pomegranate, marigold, moss, onions, and the plant indigo which produces our blues and indigos. Combining some of these dyes with cochineal results in an even greater color spectrum. You will also discover how to use cochineal in combination with lemon juice or baking soda and with different colored natural wools to produce orange and purple threads.
One cannot help but marvel at the variety of commercial products that use cochineal as a colorant, including lipsticks and makeup for those allergic or sensitive to synthetic reds and oranges, Danone yogurt, Campari, and even Campbell’s soup. Artists have often chosen to employ cochineal and other natural colors for their work and consequently witness walls adorned with examples of fine art created without the use of chemical-based paints. Photos of Prince Charles’ attendance at Tlapanochetli are a testament to the world’s continuing fascination with the historical and contemporary significance of the fine cochineal. In the gift shop there is an opportunity to purchase dried cochineal for your own use, ink in an attractive wax-sealed bottle, paints and pastes, balls of yarn, soaps, clothing and, for the children, perhaps a painting set consisting of dried cochineal for crushing using the miniature clay mortar and pestle, along with coloring pages with an instruction sheet showing how to use the kit and produce your own shades of red, orange and pink.
A short video puts mealybug production in its proper historical context using facts, anecdotes and mythology, along with colorful images, narrated using child-friendly language. At the same time, those with a background or interest in science will have all their questions answered. The film describes the pre-Hispanic use of the pigment; the development of an internationally regulated industry that attracts the attention of heads of state from around the world from La Conquista onwards; its importance in the global market as the strongest and brightest dye known to mankind; and its decline in the mid-1800s with the invention of synthetic coloring and the subsequent adverse impact on the Mexican economy. While Oaxaca’s production and export never recovered from the recessive factors of the 19th century, the video concludes on an optimistic note documenting the industry’s resurgence in recent decades in the face of widespread health concerns related to continued reliance on synthetic substances to dye commercial products.
After your cinematic journey back into history, and having gained insight into how natural dyes are produced and used in a multitude of applications, your perception of not only Oaxaca but also the Western world will be forever enhanced…already Whether you’re in Oaxaca shopping for rugs, watching native vendors in a market, or ordering ice cream; or sit in the comfort of your home and have a Campari and a soft drink.
